Restaurant Review: Bice Dubai

Restaurant Review: Bice Dubai

The network of Bice restaurants spanning the world today began 90 years ago in Milano, Italy by Beatrice Ruggeri – also known as Bice. She was the first child of a family of 10, and so had to help her parents raise her young siblings almost as they were her own. They lived on a farm where all had to work on the land and help with all chores, so she learned a lot of things that would help her create her future. For years she was encouraged to open her "cucina" to the public as she was known for her extraordinary hospitality and personal warmth, and in 1926, when her husband Gino asked her to move to America with him where he had previously been to make good money, she decided that she would rather try a city like Milano so that she could stay close to her family. They agreed to open a "trattoria" – loosely translated as a friendly gathering place with a farm to table approach. With Bice in the kitchen and her brothers and sisters serving in the dining room, il Ristorante "Da Gino e Bice," or Bice as it would later be known, had a family feeling. The first customers said it was like being at the home of a friend, as Bice hoped they would.

Restaurant Review: Bice Dubai

As Milano emerged as a European fashion and banking center in the 1970's, Bice Milano was embraced by a new international clientele that included the continent's reigning designers. In a city where understated elegance is the norm, word spread of the restaurant's stylish interiors, the Tuscan origins of the food and of Bice Ruggeri's unwavering commitment to satisfying her clients. Bice was now a recognized Milanese restaurateur and her sons, Remo and Roberto, were taking steps to extend her vision throughout the world.

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In the early 1970's Remo and Roberto took a more active role, as they ventured into learning all that could be learned within the restaurant business. They managed to stay true to their mother's vision of Bice Ristorante being an inviting place where friends and family could come together and feel much as if they were at the home of a friend. Bice Milano remained a flourishing local establishment throughout World War II and is enjoying nine decades of success located at Via Borgospesso 12, Milano, Italy. In 1978 Remo and Roberto took the first steps to give Bice an international cache, opening the second Bice in Porto Cervo, on the island of Sardinia, where the Aga Khan had just established a playground of sorts for international socialites, celebrities, and other affluent world travelers. It wasn't unusual to find royal families in addition to the Agnelli's and Kennedy's dining on the same night. This international destination was a good match for the Bice brand of hospitality and for contemplating future locations. 

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Over the past 90 years, the Bice Group has expanded as far East and as far West as you can go. But today we are in Dubai to taste the food of Chef Davide Gardini.

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If there is one thing I can say about the food at Bice, it’s that each dish is a feast for the eyes! Get comfortable at one of the many tables, in the dining room or the terrace overlooking the Hilton Jumeirah Beach Residence’s beach and let your senses take over.

First up was a salmon carpaccio served with fresh rye bread. The rye was the perfect accompaniment to the spicy Dijon mustard the salmon was slathered in.

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Unlike Il Borro Tuscan Bistro, Bice doesn’t believe in serving only one type of food. Pappardelle with a Bolognese sauce was true home cooking; a recipe brought to the restaurant by the Chef’s grandmother.

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And now for something completely different... Beef with winter vegetables served in the most interesting of ways. The dish was inspired by the morning walks of Chef Gardini back home in Italy. The beef was smoky reminiscent of walking through a fog. The rosemary fluff looking like moss, a p Beef with winter vegetables served in the most interesting of ways. The dish was inspired by the morning walks of Chef Gardini back home in Italy. The beef was smoky reminiscent of walking through a fog. The rosemary fluff looking like moss, a p Beef with winter vegetables served in the most interesting of ways. The dish was inspired by the morning walks of Chef Gardini back home in Italy. The beef was smoky reminiscent of walking through a fog. The rosemary fluff looking like moss, a polenta cloud upon which the meat rests. The mushrooms sautéed in an espresso coffee packs a punch for an overall “smokey” dish that makes for a flavorful bite every time.

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For dessert, we were surprised with two different options. A deconstructed apple pie, with the perfect amount of sweetness, with a side of the most amazing cinnamon ice cream. The other dessert? The chef went back to the Italian roots of the restaurant and served us a modern take on the famous tiramisu dessert.

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TravelClaire Blumenthal